How to Replace an Outdoor Frost-Free Faucet
Time required: 1-2 hours · Difficulty 3/5
A poorly sloped or improperly connected frost-free faucet can freeze and burst inside the wall over winter, causing serious water damage that some insurance policies treat as a maintenance failure rather than a covered loss. Always shut off the home's main water supply before cutting any pipe, and make sure the new faucet slopes slightly downward toward the outside so it drains completely after each use.
Est. DIY Parts: $25 - $45 · Pro Service: $180 - $280 · Est. Savings: $135 - $255
* Estimates based on regional/national contractor rate benchmarks. Actual part prices vary by brand and retailer.
Parts & Tools You'll Need
- 10 in. Frost-Free Sillcock (Anti-Siphon)
- SharkBite Push-to-Connect Fittings
- PEX Pipe (short length)
- Tubing Cutter or Hacksaw
- SharkBite Disconnect Tool
- Adjustable Wrench
Step-by-Step Manual
- Shut off the main water supply Find your home's main shutoff valve (often near the water heater) and turn it off completely, then open the outdoor faucet to drain any remaining water.
- Access the faucet from inside Locate where the faucet's pipe enters the house — basement, crawlspace, or garage — and clear space to work.
- Cut the old faucet free Use a tubing cutter or hacksaw to cut the pipe behind the old faucet, then pull the old sillcock out through the wall from outside.
- Dry-fit the new sillcock Slide the new frost-free sillcock through the same hole from outside, checking that it slopes slightly downward toward the exterior.
- Connect the new pipe Use SharkBite push-to-connect fittings to join the sillcock's tailpiece to your home's water line — no soldering needed.
- Secure the faucet to the siding Screw the mounting flange to the exterior wall and caulk around the edge to keep water from getting behind the siding.
- Restore water and test Turn the main water supply back on, open the new faucet fully, and check every connection for drips before closing up the wall.